NYC Haul w/ notes descriptions & descriptions, store experiences and updated collection photos. **long post**

To start my new year right, I traveled to NYC to explore various fragrance shops that I’d been dying to check out and can safely report they did not disappoint. I walked away from Manhattan with 15 full bottles, 11 travel size (10ml) and arrived home to 3 full bottles on my doorstep. I’ve tried to workout how I should break down my haul and hope this helps with notes and a short description.

Let me first start with the in-person experiences I had in a few of the stores. Feel free to skip this section if you care to.

I had heard stories that Scent Bar can be a bit chaotic and overwhelming but I didn’t find that at all. I arrived for my first visit on a Sunday in the late afternoon and waited outside in line for approx. 15 mins. When I entered the store I was warmly greeted by Rose who promptly asked what I was looking for. I explained to her that I leaned heavily to amber and gourmand fragrances but I was a collector and trying to stretch myself into more spring/summer scents but I was open to adding anything I felt worthy to my assortment. Though the signs state a 20 min limit, I was there for over an hour (I believe) and walked away with seven full bottles. Note they don’t give samples on the weekend but Rose snuck me a few pre-made ones to which I am grateful!

Rose had suggested I check out Stéle, a shop newly opened on Mott Street. When I arrived I was stunned by the number of perfume brands I didn’t recognize! Wa:it Hito, The Ratontuer, Ormaie mixed in with familiar houses like Andrea Maack, Stora Skuggen and Liis made me feel right at home. Jake (I believe one of the owners) approached me in a casual but friendly way, assessing what sort of mission I was on. After a quick chat I could tell he was excited to show me a few makers he thought I would like… to which he was right. I walked out after 35 minutes with four full bottle! (I realized after I left that I had ordered a bottle of Luna by Kintsugi from their online shop which is currently on backorder but I’m eagerly awaiting.)

I don’t want to say I avoid designer perfumes but I do find myself… avoiding designer perfumes. The one major exception I make in Guerlain, I find their perfumes to be elegant, well blended and beautiful. When I walked into Saks 5th Ave I bee-lined it to their counter (no pun intended) expecting no greeting (I’m a heavily tattooed elder goth) but was surprised when Yahaira promptly asked what sort of scents I liked. She was warm, charming and her Queen’s accent was so endearing I could have shopped all day with her. I left with 1 full bottle (personalized), the eight 10ml discovery set and of course an iconic red lipstick in the personalized lipstick case… as they say… when in Rome.

Finally, I returned back to Scent Bar the next day, only to do some browsing… there was no wait and immediately Marcelle blew my cover and recognized me from the day before. Madison (gosh I hope that was her name, she was lovely and a fellow Capricorn) was fast to pull bottles I hadn’t tried, was fun to chat with, and gave great recommendations. Lance was wonderful also and had the same shoes on as me, so of course we were fast friends. They made me samples, let me stay a little after closing and I walked away with 3 more full bottles.

All-in-all I went to many other places and plan to visit NYC again to add to my collection… now onto the show.

I’ve divide these by the following categories -

Deep and Dark (fall/winter) Sweet and Edible (summer/fall) Squeaky Clean (spring/summer/year-round) Soft and Floral (spring/summer)

Deep and Dark

Romance Noire by Sylhouette - I would describe this scent in two words “love lost”. This immediately takes me to laying in agony from heartache on a leather couch, empty bottles of wine, ashtray full of half smoked cigarettes and a vase of wilted roses that should have been tossed weeks ago. This was the first perfume I had smelled from Sylhouette but I could sense the perfumer's portrayal of darkness and melancholy without a doubt. This one feels almost like you are spying on someone’s memory and it’s heartbreaking but outstanding.

Notes: Wild Berries, Aged Wine, Dried Rose, Dusty Leather, Dark Smoke

Bible Noire by Sylhouette - They describe this scent as “losing faith” and does bring imagery of a charred bible or church pew. The opening is ash and smoke followed by biblical oils, resins and an animalic finish (note: they use real Castoreum, so with this what you will). Though unorthodox still very wearable and beautiful. Looking back I wish I had purchased several others in the collection: Desir Noir, Soleil Noir… Chanson Noire - all interesting.

Notes: Olibanum Absolute, Myrrh, Guaiacwood, Labdanum Absolute, Choya Loban Absolute, Castoreum, Himalayan Cedarwood

Private by Inverso - A delicate dance of citrus from the bergamot, rose and black oud blend in a way that makes each note stand on its own. This scent is perfectly unisex and screams seduction. This NYC based brand (they live down the street from Stéle) seems so intimate with their handwritten labels in gold ink and the black and white photographs that accompany each bottle. I found on their website you can customize your discovery set - to which I will be doing so ASAP.

Top: Bergamot, Saffron, Pink Pepper

Heart: Black Oud, Rose, Patchouli, Cedarwood

Base: Sandalwood, Amber, Vanilla, Musk

Rock the Myrrh by Dries Von Noten - I really wish I didn’t love these bottles so much… the porcelain and color tinted glass beg to be added to my collection but at $340 USD a 10ml will have to do. The loudest voices in this song are the suede and myrrh notes by far to me. The spice and woodiness bring an earthiness that reads almost leather. This is sophisticated and reeks of old money - to which I love.

Top: Cypress, Pink Pepper

Heart: Myrrh, Patchouli

Base: Suede, Benzoin

Spell 125 by Papillon - Though I believe most people know of this fragrance, I feel compelled to describe for the few that do not. In the Ancient Egyptian Book for the Dead, Spell 125 is used when weighing the decease’s heart against a feather, if the heart is lighter or equal to the heather the person is deemed pure. This perfume encapsulates this ceremony in a way that feels illegal. The heavy ancient oils of frankincense with the fresh pine combined with the ambergris (white being considered the most pure and softest) create an earthy musk that some may find off-putting while others will see it as a masterpiece. I’m not yet the women that would wear Spell 125 but my hope is I’ll be her soon enough. Very happy to add this to my assembly.

Notes: White Ambergris. Siberian Pine. Black Hemlock. Green Sacra Frankincense. Ylang. Indian Sandalwood.

Sweet and Edible

Tobacco Honey by Guerlain - Does this need any introduction? Though this was released in 2023, you may think it’s been around for decades. The timeless combination of sweet and savory is so well combined, there is no distinguishing from a top, heart or base note. The sweet, animalic honey married with the dried tobacco carries a sophisticated quality that Guerlain delivers so well. The vanilla, tonka and sandalwood add a depth that takes the honey from a traditional sticky sweet to an elegant elixir. Excellent longevity both on the skin and in sillage makes the hefty price of $395 USD for 100ml feel less scandalous.

Notes: honey, cloves, anise, tobacco, tonka, vanilla, sesame, agarwood (oud) and sandalwood

Gioiosa by Profumum Roma - Meaning Joyful in Italian, the makers knew this one would bring a smile to the faces of those who discovered it. On the softer side of the gourmand spectrum, I believe this would be highly appealing to the masses. A creamy, somewhat lactonic, warm vanilla with the ever so subtle hint of citrus and floral. The dry down stays sweet but not cloying and translated to a sophisticated spun sugar you would see on a fancy dessert. I’m pleasured that the brand decided to offer an 18ml at ~$135 USD as the only other size is 100ml at $320 USD….which I do find rather steep in this case but happy to have more then a sample size.

Notes: Amber, Bergamot, Coconut, Jasmin, Mosses, Orange, Vanilla

Bianco Latte by Giardini di Toscana - Ay ya yai… this one is known by anyone that has ever seen a TikTok perfume review in 2024 but while I’m here, I’ll give my two (s)cents. Bianco Latte is exactly what you expect it to be, a strong honey vanilla that is simple with decent longevity. This was one that was on my porch when I arrived home and frankly forgot I had ordered it. The synthetic sweetness may be too much for some or even reminiscent to B&BW scents worn in our teens… but it’s simple, wearable and I only paid $70 instead of the $150 for 100ml. If you are looking for a gourmand that everyone knows and most people enjoy this may be the one but I can think of 100 other perfumes that I’d pick before this one (apologize if this comes off as harsh). You’ll likely find me wearing this around the house on chore days.

Top: Caramel.

Heart: Honey, Coumarin.

Base: Vanilla, White Musks.

Panettone by Milano Fragranze - I love this perfume and had no idea I needed it in my collection. The imagery of an Italian bread, enjoyed at Christmas is so spot on you’ll feel the need to grab a fork when sampling. A dense fruitcake filled with rum soaked bitter orange, spiced ginger and a hint of carrot makes this scent irresistible. Excited to have this in my summer gourmand arsenal but I’m sure I’ll wear it much sooner.

Notes: Bitter Orange, Mandarin, Ginger, Carrot Seeds, Davana, Rum, Everlasting Flower Absolute, Tagete Seeds, Vanilla Absolute, Vinyl Gaiacol

Van Extasyx by Lorenzo Pazzaglia - Van Py Rhum is one of my all time favorite vanilla perfumes and Van Extasyx is her older more elegant sister. Both scents have 7 vanillas, making it unmistakeable what you are smelling but Van Extasyx has a pure vanilla extract that changes the overall approach. VPR has two different rums, adding a boozy quality that’s not present in Van Ex. Think college versus grad school… both are a good time just at different parties. With that said Sugar Kisses is the much younger sister in high school - highly recommend sampling the three to see what I mean.

Top: Bourbon Vanilla, Madagascar Vanilla, Tahitian Vanilla, Mohea Vanilla

Heart: Vanille Island, White Flowers, Caramel

Base: Agarwood, Pure Vanilla Extrait, Tonka bean, Black Vanilla Pods

Orgasmo by Hilda Soliani - I’ve been told in three different perfume shops, in three different states by three total strangers that Hilde Soliani is crazy and that alone makes me want to try all of her perfumes. A vivacious Italian woman, multifaceted in the arts (theatre, painting, jewelry design, perfumer) trends this amazingly creative line between traditional and modern scents. From all of the perfumes I have sampled of hers, you get the sense that she draws inspiration from her cherished memories and her love of FOOD! This particular fragrance was inspired but her beach adventured with friends while sipping iced almond coffee. Sweet cherry-like tones evoke the image of a marzipan dough ready to be rolled on a wood butcher block. This is a showstopper for any almond scent lover.

Notes: Almond, Amaretto Liqueur Accord

Sugarful Sweet Nothings by Michel Germain - This fun little 100ml bottle is in the shape of a retro sugar shaker and is only $55 USD!!! The bright green apple and lavender elevate this from reading too much like Pink Sugar, and the caramel and tonka bean add warmth and interest. This is a sweet, sundress in a bottle and surprised I’ve never seen a review or even a mention. There are 7 scents in the Sugarful collection (Sugarful, Sweet Nothing, Kiss, Sunshine, Dream, Spice and for men) and at this price point would be a great entry into gourmands with little comittment.

Top: Green Apple, Sugared Lemon, Bergamot

Heart: Sweet Muguet, Pink Rose, Lavender

Base: Creamy Caramel, Powdery Tonka Bean, Musk

Squeaky Clean

Ethereal Wave by Liis - In my last perfume haul I admitted that Liis is a house that goes against most of what I enjoy in perfume… yet here I am on my second full bottle. In my quest to lean into other scent families I continue to find myself enjoying this house for its quiet, understated notes. This tea scent is clean, fresh with a subtle spice of cardamom but the name had me assuming I was getting into aquatics - but the name is inspired by the ethereal music of The Cocteau Twins, a Scottish 80’s Rock band (which makes for a way better image then literal waves). Very easy spring/summer scent.

Notes: Bergamot, Cardamom White Tea, Black Tea Absolute, Blonde Woods, Velvet Musk

Nitesurf Neroli by Regime des Fleurs - Neroli? Smoked Seashells? Salt Mist?? These are nowhere close to my personal profile but I was drawn in instantly. The salty brine, the bitterness of the neroli, sweetness of the florals and slight smoke make this beach accord far more interesting than loads of scents in this category. This is what I wanted from Sex And The Sea Neroli by Francesca Bianch, a dreamy ocean blend that was more of a whisper than an incredibly loud shout (if you know Franny B, then you know) and happy when Madison at Scent Bar asked me to try it even though I resisted. I plan to explore more of Regime des Fleurs soonest.

Top: Neroli Water, Salty Mist

Heart: Neon Petals, Ginger Lily, Transparent Citrus, Hedione

Base: Smoked Seashells, Ambroxan

The Ghost in the Shell by Stat Libre d’Orange - Named after the Manga series Etat describes their inspiration as “this fragrance embodies the concept of merging organic and technological aspects, reflecting themes from the "Ghost in the Shell" universe. It symbolizes the evolution of humanity enhanced by technology, aiming to create a scent that feels both familiar and futuristic.” I hate to say this… but… that feels like a stretch. This perfume is a perfectly clean, fresh skin scent that carries a soapy quality. I purchased this purely off the soft, slight pear/peach note I believed I smelled and was terribly confused after locating the real notes. No idea what theses mean but all in all it’s a beautiful fragrance that I think people may pass up simply by not understanding what to expect from these notes. I imagine wearing this straight from the shower on lazy days that I work from home.

Top: Aqual, Tuzu HE, hexyl acetate (MANE biotech)

Heart: Ijasmine absolute, mugane, milky skin accord

Base: Moss accord, vinyl gaiacol (MANE biotech), Orcanox

Epona by Papillon - This-is-a-masterpiece. Though I am a city girl through and through this scent summons some equestrian rider I didn’t know I had in me. Created as a tribute to Liz Moores’ horse and named after the Celtic goddess of horses this embodies the animal, the saddle, the rider and the grassy meadow. Rarely has a perfume stopped me in my tracks and transported me in a way that this one has. The leather and saddle soap combined with the horse skin note makes this so unique, I’ve smelled nothing like it and doubt I ever will. Highly HIGHLY recommend you find a sample if you are an Equine enthusiast (or pretend to be ;)).

Notes: warm horse skin, saddle soap, green meadows, leather saddle

Soft and Floral

Soie Malaquais by Dries Von Noten - short and sweet… yes… this is worth the hype. The silk and chestnut could be characterized as alluring as this is subdued sweetness with hardly any floral - an interesting balance between pretty and sexy. This is sold out all over the world currently (including Saks, Bergdorf, online… etc.) but suspect when it is available I’ll splurge on a full size (vs. my 10ml).

Top: Beramont, Blackcurrant

Heart: Rose, Silk

Base: Chestnut, Cocoa

Camomille Satin by Dries Von Noten - my third DVN I picked up while in NYC and I realize that each has a textile note: Suede, Silk and now this one with Satin. Some may argue that this should liven the gourmand category but I highly disagree. This is a soft, tea floral with hints of vanilla for balance and musk for interest. This is by far the lightest of the three I brought home but this doesn’t take away from the loveliness. I would love a full bottle but at this price tag, I would hope it was more of a punch to the face so it will be on the long list for a while longer.

Top: Chamomile, Petit Grain Bigarade

Heart: Lavender Absolute , Orange Flower Absolute , Rose, Turkish Absolute

Base: Vanilla Bean , Musk , Galbanum

Incantesimo by Inverso - I love lavender and this is the most perfect lavender scent I have ever smelled. With 4 different types married with other aromatics like rosemary and sage this fragrance is gorgeous. The night I took this home I wore it to bed and could not stop smelling myself. Call it a floral, call it an aromatic… whatever it is, the names translation of spell/enchantment is description enough for me.

Top: White Lavender, Rosemary, Bergamot

Heart: Purple Lavender, Lavandula Angustifolia (or English Lavender), Lavandula Nana, Sage, Coriander, Geranium, Cypress, Rosemary

Base: Amber, Vanilla, Tonka Bean

Black Jade by Lubin - I am a sucker for perfume history. Inspired by a scent reportedly worn by Marie Antoinette, this was recreated from a formula by her personal perfumer, Jean-Louis Fargeon. Floral, fresh, spicy, woody and blended in a way that each note doesn’t take away from the next. I’ll admit the connection to its former owner was why I made the purchase but the scent on its own is beautiful and timeless and will enjoy flaunting it this spring.

Top: galbanum, bergamot, cardamom

Middle: rose, jasmine, incense, cinnamon

Base: sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, amber

Here is a list of the perfumes in the Guerlain Discovery Set:

Néroli Outrenoir - 10 ML Spiritueuse Double Vanille - 10 ML Rose Barbare - 10 ML Cuir Béluga - 10 ML Musc Outreblanc - 10 ML Angélique Noire - 10 ML Herbes Troublantes - 10 ML Oud Nude - 10 ML

Thank you for reading!! I love perfume, love discussing notes, houses and opinions, feel free to give feedback or share your favorites/dislikes!

(Bonus last photo are all the decants I make for my best friend so we will always have the same collection)